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    Mexican Petite Teen. Lesbian Licking Mexican Mistress Slave. Brazil Latina Mexican. Spread a thin layer of wood glue on the back of each lug and place it on the board, pressing firmly.

    Make sure each lug is lined up straight then flip the board and put two screws into the back of each lug through the board.

    Check the lugs are still correctly aligned then screw on the 18mm wooden battens, using glue and a couple of screws, per batten.

    Screw a piece of timber battening to the short edge. Base: Once cut to size this piece is done, nice and simple.

    Begin to assemble to pieces using wood glue. When it is all glued then clamp the whole piece and weight it down so no pieces pop out Once this is dry un-clamp it and screw on the back board and battening.

    Negative Side Piece: Same as above but with less bits : Now that you have all the pieces assembled you need to make sure the faces are in good condition.

    This means filling in any knots or visible screws. Once you have done that, sand the whole face removing any odd lumps or edges. Once you have all the bits ready you can assemble you mould.

    Notice that because of the design of the mould we aren't screwing into the edges of the boards, we are screwing into the timber battens behind them.

    We put leaves, glue gun patterns, bubble wrap and other things in the moulds, as well as burning the surface of one mould to get a really cool wood texture.

    The final stage is to use some kind of mould release. You should do this as close to casting as possible, and the moulds will need re-oiling after each use.

    Now that your first batch is cured it's time to break out the moulds. Carefully unscrew the moulds, and remove all the panels, if you used enough mould release this should be easy, if you have any trouble try sliding a palette knife between the mould and brick to sepatate them.

    Be careful! Once all the bricks are out clean the moulds and go back to step 6 sanding the moulds, assembling them, oiling them and casting.

    You will need to seal them somehow. The simplest way of doing this is to coat them in PVA. Go pick up a big tub from your local hardware store, paint it onto the concrete and it will soak into the surface and , when dry, provide a rudimentary barrier against water.

    For this set up to be safe for a public environment it needs to be stable and theft proof. Now enjoy the large gallery of final pics. If you want your project to survive for a long time outside and be safe there are lots of things you have to consider.

    I mentioned most of them already, but people keep asking so I'm collecting them in this extra step. Normally if it's too heavy for anyone to lift by hand it is considered safe, however if it is too light then you will have to bolt it to the ground, which is a pain.

    So having a heavy project can be helpful. Our bricks were pretty heavy already, when they are finally installed on site they will be glued together using grip fill or similar and they will become one unmovable mass, safe and stable.

    We added a plasticiser to the mix to help alleviate some of the effects, but sealing the surface of the concrete with PVA and filling any large gaps where water will collect will also help.

    Our seating had lots of holes in the top so we came up with a couple of solutions, firstly we made a few 'capping blocks' without lugs in the top pictured secondly we filled in some of the top holes with clear resin to stop water pooling in them.

    Over long periods of time glass reacts with cement and will actually weaken the concrete. Most likely not enough to matter for a seating project, but still not a good practise to get into.

    Reply 4 years ago. Hm, I didn't know that you could make your own concrete mold. That is good to know. I have found pre-made concrete molds in home improvement stores, but it would be fun it make your own.

    It would also make your home personal and unique. Thanks for your tutorials. We put silicone along all the seams of our concrete artwork, as it makes the edges just a bit rounded and thereby more safe.

    But anybody falling onto concrete at any age will likely have a boo-boo since the concrete is much harder than the person. I've been wanting to make some concrete chairs similar to a regular living room chair not wingback or an adirondac chair.

    I like your idea. I am not very familiar with concrete molding techniques. Is there a way to chamfer the edges and round-off the corners?

    The edges and corners of the blocks are very sharp with potential safety issues. Reply 8 years ago on Introduction. The pictures there aren't of the final installation, just a placement to take some glamour shots.

    It is possible to round off the corners in the mould, but the way we have ours set up it would take way too long to reset each time.

    Nice project well described Makes the end result much lighter Nice work. I made a few similar projects, and thought I'd share a few suggestions.

    First, if you would like the units to be lighter and easier to transport and rearrange, you can insert either an empty box inside the mould which you won't recover or alternately, build the bottom first, insert a rectangular tube form box with no top or bottom into the center, fill the sides of the mould, forming your "rectangular tube", fill the inner form with packing peanuts or some other light substance for volume, pour additional cement into the inner form, and remove.

    Then fill to the top of the outer form. Now the center is mostly Styrofoam, and the final block is significantly lighter.

    Alternately or additionally you might want to consider using hypertufa or papercrete in place of regular concrete.

    It is very strong and very light. Papercrete is similar, but uses paper pulp, like pulverized newsprint, instead of peat. It too is very strong and very light.

    The outer surfaces on hypertufa are very organic looking and pretty. One idea that works well is to attach moss samples onto the inner sides of the mould prior to pouring the hypertufa.

    When the unit dries, the moss is embedded into the sides, and continues to grow, creating a nice, soft, natural surface.

    For units a public place, it has to be heavy, or kids will just roll them about for fun. If the individual units were made lighter, they would have to be cemented down and together to prevent vandalism.

    Absolutely right, whenever you have a project in a public space there's a whole bunch of stuff like that you have to satisfy or they just won't let you do it at all.

    Papercrete is very hard to get dry if there is much thickness to a block. Most people use too much cement and too little sand with the paper fiber and when it is mixed the mix needs to be on the dry side of the coin unless you have a year or more to get it to dry out.

    And it will really need shelter form the environment while drying. I do wonder if heat could be used like it is in making cbs blocks to speed the curing process.

    Part of the trick, of course, is just not to make it very thick! Making it hollow, as detailed above, helps greatly, and also makes drying time not much of an issue, since it can dry from the inside out as well as the outside in.

    It helps to leave a small hole in the top to let the water vapour out as it cures. But the real trick of course is just not to use too much water in the first place, as you said.

    Since the curing of cement is NOT due to it drying out, but rather due to the water being used up as part of the chemical bonding reaction, starting with a dryer mix assures that there will be little to no water vapour that needs to escape.

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    Most likely not enough to matter for a seating project, but still not a good practise to get into. Reply 4 years ago. Hm, I didn't know that you could make your own concrete mold.

    That is good to know. I have found pre-made concrete molds in home improvement stores, but it would be fun it make your own.

    It would also make your home personal and unique. Thanks for your tutorials. We put silicone along all the seams of our concrete artwork, as it makes the edges just a bit rounded and thereby more safe.

    But anybody falling onto concrete at any age will likely have a boo-boo since the concrete is much harder than the person.

    I've been wanting to make some concrete chairs similar to a regular living room chair not wingback or an adirondac chair.

    I like your idea. I am not very familiar with concrete molding techniques. Is there a way to chamfer the edges and round-off the corners? The edges and corners of the blocks are very sharp with potential safety issues.

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction. The pictures there aren't of the final installation, just a placement to take some glamour shots.

    It is possible to round off the corners in the mould, but the way we have ours set up it would take way too long to reset each time.

    Nice project well described Makes the end result much lighter Nice work. I made a few similar projects, and thought I'd share a few suggestions.

    First, if you would like the units to be lighter and easier to transport and rearrange, you can insert either an empty box inside the mould which you won't recover or alternately, build the bottom first, insert a rectangular tube form box with no top or bottom into the center, fill the sides of the mould, forming your "rectangular tube", fill the inner form with packing peanuts or some other light substance for volume, pour additional cement into the inner form, and remove.

    Then fill to the top of the outer form. Now the center is mostly Styrofoam, and the final block is significantly lighter.

    Alternately or additionally you might want to consider using hypertufa or papercrete in place of regular concrete.

    It is very strong and very light. Papercrete is similar, but uses paper pulp, like pulverized newsprint, instead of peat. It too is very strong and very light.

    The outer surfaces on hypertufa are very organic looking and pretty. One idea that works well is to attach moss samples onto the inner sides of the mould prior to pouring the hypertufa.

    When the unit dries, the moss is embedded into the sides, and continues to grow, creating a nice, soft, natural surface. For units a public place, it has to be heavy, or kids will just roll them about for fun.

    If the individual units were made lighter, they would have to be cemented down and together to prevent vandalism. Absolutely right, whenever you have a project in a public space there's a whole bunch of stuff like that you have to satisfy or they just won't let you do it at all.

    Papercrete is very hard to get dry if there is much thickness to a block. Most people use too much cement and too little sand with the paper fiber and when it is mixed the mix needs to be on the dry side of the coin unless you have a year or more to get it to dry out.

    And it will really need shelter form the environment while drying. I do wonder if heat could be used like it is in making cbs blocks to speed the curing process.

    Part of the trick, of course, is just not to make it very thick! Making it hollow, as detailed above, helps greatly, and also makes drying time not much of an issue, since it can dry from the inside out as well as the outside in.

    It helps to leave a small hole in the top to let the water vapour out as it cures. But the real trick of course is just not to use too much water in the first place, as you said.

    Since the curing of cement is NOT due to it drying out, but rather due to the water being used up as part of the chemical bonding reaction, starting with a dryer mix assures that there will be little to no water vapour that needs to escape.

    Very cool. I'd recommend adding relief cuts radiating away from the top squares to allow water to drain away, so people don't have to sit in puddles.

    Even more than sitting in puddles, those concavities will be a magnet for debris, and moss in damp environments, that would dissuade people from using them.

    Keep the top well drained. Very nifty--but how comfortable are they to sit on? I think you'd almost have to cushion them in some way.

    I can see why you noted Lego 1X1s as a comparable design. Good job! Introduction: Modular Concrete Bench. More by the author:. About: Studied Architecture at Brighton But now spend a lot of time building replica props or random gadgets.

    Make sure you have your design locked down by this stage. You're going to make a few moulds that all need to be the same. When designing a concrete mould take several things into account: Dismantling: Your mould will be taken apart and put back together several times, so use screws, not nails or glue.

    Surface: The concrete will pick up great detail. A wood grain effect can look really nice, but if you want a clean smooth edge then use laminate board.

    Also make sure any holes are filled and that you grease or oil your mould to stop the concrete soaking into the wood. Then you will have a broken mould and concrete everywhere.

    Try not to screw into the side of a sheet of wood. Instead screw into a batten fixed to the sheet see building the mould for more info To each step I've attached a diagram of how our mould was assembled.

    I've also attached the full vector PDF here. This seems as good a place as any for a materials list. Attachments Concrete Couch Construction.

    This will be a lot easier if you have a cement mixer, but for smaller batches you can just mix things up on a board using a trowel.

    The ratios quoted here are in volume. They can easily be scaled up, we used a small bucket to measure materials but you can measure by trowel-fulls.

    A standard mix will do fine for this build, 1 part cement, 2 parts sharp sand and 3 parts gravel. Measure out the dry parts into your mixer and start it up.

    Once the dry parts are mixed then add your plasticiser, it comes in large bottles, and you only need a small amount per mix.

    Now you can begin to slowly add water. If you haven't done this before, go really slowly. It may seem like nothing is happening but the concrete will suddenly hit the right consistency and you can easily go too far and end up having to add more sand and cement to compensate.

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